Safe Installation Tips
Every safe, when possible, should be anchored in place with heavy-duty fasteners. Ideally, use multiple bolts in the bottom of the safe, anchored to concrete or solid foundation. Choose the appropriate lag bolts or anchors for the material below your safe. If you can’t mount to the floor, bolt the safe to wall studs. You can locate the position of the studs with an inexpensive electronic “Stud Sensor” available at home supply stores.
If the steel on the bottom of your safe is fairly thin, place a steel backing strip between the bolt heads and the safe bottom. (Large washers will work, but a backing strip is better.) Without such reinforcement, the bolt heads may pull right through thin-gauge steel if the safe is rocked, or levered from the bottom with a pry-bar.
Locate your safe in the corner of a room or in a recess that blocks access to one or more sides of the safe. On many gun safes, the steel on the top, sides, and rear is thinner than on the door. Blocking access to the sides makes it much more difficult to use power tools on the sides, where the safe is most vulnerable. It’s also wise to place the safe in a relatively tight space with limited room to manuever. Anything that makes the safe harder to move helps deter would-be thieves.
Many people place their safe in a garage or basement. That’s not necessarily a bad idea, but people also tend to store their tools in the same locations. Don’t store your power tools next to the safe. One safe-maker told us how a customer’s safe was defeated using the owners’ own cutting torch which was stored right next to the safe!
Inspect the area around the safe. Avoid locations where there are a lot of wood beams, paint cans, or other combustible material nearby. In the event of a serious house-fire, these items will fuel the flames, increasing the likelihood that items inside your safe will be heat-damaged.
Chris Luchini, co-author of Rec.Gun’s guide to Gun Safes, offers some practical advice: “1) Get an alarm system. If the burglars hear an alarm go off, they are less likely to stick round to finish the job. Alarms on both the house and the safe area are a good idea. 2) Hide the safe. If the safe is built into a wall, or behind a false wall and they can’t find it, they can’t break into it. It may help to keep a cheap gun cabinet around with a couple of junker guns in it, [so] that a thief who knows you have guns will find it, break in and leave disappointed, without looking for your real safe.”
Former law enforcement officer Ron Godwin, now Manager of El Cajon Gun Exchange, has investigated many buglaries and safe break-ins over the years. He advises: “Be creative. Stick [your safe] in a closet with a solid core door and a deadbolt (that means the bad guy has to take more time and make more noise getting to your safe). If the closet is in a garage or utility room stick a professional-looking sign on the door such as ‘Warning!! High Voltage–No User Serviceable Parts’. Put a smoke detector on the ceiling directly above your safe and run a fake wire so it looks like it is hooked into a security system. Most of the things a bad guy does to break into a safe–drilling into a hard plate, grinding, cutting with a torch–create smoke. If the smoke detector activates there’s an alarm and the bad guy doesn’t know if someone will respond to it or not. With the possibility of being ‘caught in the act’, he may just leave.”
Any questions or to talk about possibly ordering a gun safe for you -
Please contact me directly at: 510.397.1151
Thank you – Chris
article courtesy of: 6mmbr