Count (4) – 72″x60″x27″ Double Door Gun Safes – We build the safes to insure that you receive the lowest possible prices you’ll find anywhere. We are able to provide you with a large selection of Custom Sized Gun SAFES and our Custom Guitar SAFES for either your residential or commercial needs.

Make sure and buy your products ‘ BEFORE ‘ you need them!

Call us toll free: 1-800-656-4143 ext 2000 or

Direct line: 510-397-1151

What’s Included in our Gun Safes And our Custom Guitar Safes!

We would like to let people know that we build Gun safes, Guitar safes and Vault doors for the storage of your guns and valuables.

We make these safe body’s from either 10 gauge steel plate which is our standard body plate or from 1/4″ steel plate which is optional, usually we will use as a standard door gauge 1/4″ steel on all safes.

Safe & Vault Door Options:

Top & Bottom Door Bolts (optional)

Lighting system (optional)

Digital locks (optional

Extra shelves if needed (optional)

Upgraded Fireproofing (optional)

De-humidifiers (optional)

Tan or gray cloth interiors

Dual Locking systems (optional)

Custom dividers inside (keeping each guitar separate)

Either 1″ or 1-1/2″ steel door bolts

Polished automotive paint (optional on level 2 & 5) or

Textured finish with semi-gloss (standard on level 7)

Custom logos (optional)

Safe Pinstripes included as (standard)

5 Prong Bankers wheels – (optional, chrome or gold)

3 Prong Banker wheels are (standard)

Gold package – (Gold lock & Gold bankers wheel & Gold Stripes)

1/2″ thick 60 Rockwell hard plate behind each Lock

Re-lockers TWO per door.

2300 degrees@60 minutes, Level 7
Each of our safes are custom made everyday by our expert safe building staff with over 65 years experience. All our safes are built right here inside the USA with USA quality that is backed by a Lifetime warranty guarding against fire or attempted break ins – the warranty is easy, report any attempted break ins or fire to the local Police dept or fire station & turn in their report to us with in 30 days – we will pay shipping costs to & from your location and we will either repair your safe or build you another safe if need be.

It’s always important to find out the metal thickness of the safe your looking to purchase – A good safe body is made of at least 10 Guage which is 50% the thickness of a 1/4″ & 1/4″ door as minimums will get you good protection.

But, the thicker the better – do not scrimp because it costs more – when you get hit with an attempted burglary, you’ll be happy your safes equipped to handle the situation!

To talk to me about your safe options and having us build one exactly for you.

Call Chris
510.397.1151

page 4
Last Thoughts

Buy the biggest and best safe that you can. When I bought my first safe many years ago, I thought it would meet all my needs for the rest of my life. The trouble was, that since then I kept buying guns and not selling any. Result? The number of guns I owned quickly outstripped the capacity of the safe. That, in turn, forced me to buy another safe. Think big.

Always buy the best you can, even if you have to stretch a little to do so. You won’t be sorry. Quality is always the most cost effective way to go in the long run. This is especially true if you live in a rural or semi rural area where your property is isolated.

Don’t tell every Tom, Dick, and Harry that you have lots of guns and other valuable property in your home. The word will get around to the wrong people sooner or later. Also get to know and be on good terms with your neighbors. Nosey neighbors who are always aware of what’s going on in the neighborhood and who are willing to report suspicious behavior or strangers in the area are like gold.

Consider getting an alarm system. As mentioned before, a good alarm system takes away the burglar’s most valuable resource – time. Get a dog. They’re the best burglar alarm in the world and the best deterrent to thieves. Yes, it’s true. They really are man’s best friend. Unlike the rotten teenagers who live down the street, they don’t lie, they don’t cheat, they don’t do drugs, and they don’t steal. They also work cheap. Someone once tried to break in my house at 3 in the morning several years ago. The dogs did a real number on the guy. We found a bloody pants leg in the yard from his trousers which was then used to identify him when he showed up at the hospital emergency room. Take good care of your dogs because they’re taking good care of you.

As true when buying any product of substance, do your research and look for the features discussed here and you should feel the satisfaction of knowing that your guns and other property are as protected as you can make them.

Please call me if i can help you out in your decision on buying your gun safes

Thank you -

Chris Guerra

Direct: 510.397.1151

Toll Free: 800-656-4143 x2000

article courtesy of: Todd Spotti

- page 3 -

Fire Resistance

There are something like 380,000 residential fires every year in the US – one every 83 seconds. The temperatures inside a burning house have been estimated at 1200 degrees or more. Under those conditions, a non fire resistant gun safe is nothing more than a big metal oven. The chocolate brownies you enjoy so much were baked at 350 degrees. Imagine what 1200 degrees would do to them.

Never the less, adding fire resistance to your safe is a big decision. First, we have to realize that there is no such thing as a fire proof safe. Even the very best can’t protect its contents from unusually hot fires for long periods of time. Then there is the fact that the additional cost is significant. Fire resistance isn’t cheap. The thick insulation material also reduces the amount of usable space available in the interior of the safe.

However, if you’re going to use your gun safe to also store valuable papers, documents, or other items that could be damaged by fire, obviously fire resistance is something to be considered seriously.

Some safes and lock boxes use concrete as an insulator, and it works just fine for that purpose. However, concrete is really an unsuitable material for an insulator on a gun safe. The fact is that concrete is a fairly porous substance and can trap and hold humidity quite well. You obviously don’t want to subject your guns to an enclosed humid environment for long periods of time. Instead, look for safes that use Underwriters Laboratory (UL) rated fire board as insulation.

So what standard should a fire resistant safe meet? First some facts. Paper chars at 405 degrees. It also gets brittle and therefore unusable before it chars. Consequently, the temperature inside a safe should not rise to more than 350 degrees. It’s also estimated that in urban areas, a fire department will respond to a fire and contain it within 15 to 30 minutes.

OK. So what we want then is a safe where the interior temperature will not rise to more than 350 degrees while being exposed for 30 minutes to a typical 1200 degree house fire.

On the other hand, some safe companies, self certify the fire resistance of their own products. Sometimes, this is accomplished by paper analysis rather than actual testing.

Warranties

Most safes come with a standard materials and workmanship warranty. Some for a certain period of time, and some with a lifetime warranty.

- page 2 -

What To Look For – Doors

Now let’s look at doors. As mentioned before, most safe doors use steel that’s sufficiently thick and hard enough to resist most types of direct attack for a reasonable period of time. First, you want to see whether the door hinges are located inside or outside of the safe. If they’re outside, the door opens 180 degrees which is preferable.  Now many manufacturers of safes with outside hinges will tell you how strong they are, how thick, how hard, etc. etc. The truth is IF they have stationary hinges on the hinge side the burglar cannot get into the safe anyway.

You also want the door with at least 4 bolts on the two sides and top and bottom preferably. If the safe has bolts all the way around, even though the outside hinges are removed, the door will still be locked in place by the bolts.

Let me also make a quick observation about the number of door bolts. Generally speaking more is better. However, things can be overdone. I’ve seen safes with 27 bolts. Do all those bolts provide a proportional amount of protection to their cost, probably.

Eight bolts on a door work just fine, and 12 is better still. Anything over 12 is awesome of course.

As far as the diameter of the bolts are concerned, as usual, it’s a size thing.

I’ve seen good safes where the bolts are 9/16’s of an inch. However, in this day and age, you should be able to get one inch bolts on just about any half way decent safe. 1.5” bolts are about as big as they get on home gun safes. In summary, we want outside hinges and at least 8 one inch locking bolts going all the way around the door is preferable.

What To Look For – The Lock

The combination wheel mounted to the outside of the door is connected by a shaft to an inside locking mechanism. It is extremely important that the inside mechanism be well protected as thieves will often attempt to completely drill out the device in order to either destroy it and/or render it inoperable.

The inside locking mechanism contains a small bolt that engages the gears that operate the large locking bolts that go around the door. When this locking bolt is in place, the gears in the door can’t move. Consequently, most quality safes will have a small, hardened steel plate on the inside of the door directly in front of the combination lock mechanism to protect it from someone drilling through.

A hardened plate will definitely provide an additional degree of protection to the mechanism. However, if a thief has the time and the tools, the lock mechanism can be eventually drilled out, but it will take a good amount of time, with our safes we use a Rockwell 60 hardplate the is 1/2″ thick which keeps the drilling at bay.

The inside locking mechanism should also be equipped with a relocker. This is a feature with a sensor that automatically secures the door in the locked position when someone tries to drill or punch out the lock. It’s one more layer of security protecting the door, we use TWO relockers per door.

The outside combination lock wheel should also have a steel protective collar around it to insure a large pipe wrench can’t be attached to the dial and the mechanism broken open by twisting.

Along the same lines, the outside door handle or star wheel should have a clutch mechanism on it to allow it to slip if someone applies excessive force by slipping a pipe over it and uses it as a giant lever to attempt to break the locking mechanism.

Lastly, be sure that the door is equipped with at least a UL rated type II combination with a key lock.

article continued on page 3…

Please call me if i can help you out in your decision on buying your gun safes

Thank you -

Chris Guerra

Direct: 510.397.1151

Toll Free: 800-656-4143 x2000

article courtesy of: Todd Spotti

- page 1 -
It’s an unfortunate fact of modern life that gun owners are at significant risk of having their guns stolen. Something like 4,000,000 homes are burglarized every year in the United States. It’s also been my personal observation that gun owners seem to be particularly targeted by burglars because guns, particularly handguns, can be quickly sold on the street or they can be used by the thief to commit armed robbery or worse. I doubt if a year goes by when I hear of someone I know directly has had their home broken into and their guns stolen. So what can you do? How can you protect your guns and other valuables? Well, a quality gun safe is a good first step.

There’s a large number of manufacturers out there that make gun safes, and all of them without exception say that their product is the very best you can buy. Consequently, shopping for a safe isn’t easy with all the claims and counter claims that are thrown around. So what I’m going to attempt to do in this article is discuss the features and standards you should consider when shopping for a safe.

First a couple of general comments. TIME. TOOLS. KNOWLEDGE. These three simple words are the keys to how resistant to entry your new safe will be. Never forget them when shopping for a safe.

Time

Given unlimited time, there isn’t a safe in the world that can’t be broken into. Consequently, many thieves prefer to steal the safe itself, and then work on breaking it open at their leisure in some hidden location. That’s why it’s absolutely critical that gun safes should be bolted to the floor (ideally a concrete floor) from the inside. Many safes come equipped with the necessary hardware and the holes pre-drilled in the bottoms. Make sure any safe you’re considering does. If it doesn’t, don’t buy it.

The lamentable fact is that an unbolted safe, even those weighing a 1,000 pounds or even more, can be easily and quickly rolled out of your house by using materials found within the home itself. For instance, tilt a safe over on a half a dozen or so golf balls and you can push it out the door like it was on a bed of ball bearings. Broken off broom sticks and mop handles have also been used as rollers to move a safe. When thieves have the time, they can be very inventive.  If they know ahead of time that you have a safe, they’ll probably even bring a mover’s dolly along to make the job easier. Always bolt down your safe!

You should also seriously consider adding a home alarm system to go with the safe to protect your property. When an alarm is ringing at over a hundred decibels, the element of time has been effectively removed from the equation and the thief will be under intense pressure to leave the area as soon as possible.

Tools

If you live in an isolated area, or if the safe is located in an isolated area, thieves now have the opportunity to use heavy tools on the safe at their leisure.

Heavy sledge hammers or power hammers can crack and break welds. In fact, because some manufacturers want to make their safes as esthetically pleasing as possible, welds are often ground down and polished to the point that they’ve lost a significant portion of their strength. Any welded joint is a possible entry point to a thief with the tools to exploit it.

Additionally, power chisels can often easily cut through the thinner side walls and backs of many safes. Multi horse power carbide saws, drills, and grinders will also do the job. However, the big disadvantage to the burglar using all these tools in a home is that this is a very noisy process. Ripping into a safe with a carbide grinder or saw would create so much noise that neighbors, several houses away, would be instantly alerted that something unusual was happening in your home. But, if there are no neighbors around, the thieves have it made. Consequently, don’t isolate your safe. Cutting torches can also be used to burn into the sides and back of a safe. However, if it’s a fire resistant type, the job will be a slow one.

For inexpensive gun cabinets, a pry bar will easily do the job of popping the door open. So while these products are useful from keeping guns away from young children, their ability to keep out a determined teenager or adult is nil.

Bottom line on tools – thieves aren’t going to haul heavy equipment to your home to crack your safe unless it’s located in an isolated area. They’ll more likely remove the safe (if they can) and work on it at their leisure. Once they have it, the right tools will get them in eventually.

Knowledge

If your property should be targeted by a experienced, professional safe cracker. Forget it. It’s gone. However, the chances of that happening is just about zero. Most break-ins are done by teenagers and other low level amateurs looking for property that they can quickly grab. A quality safe which is bolted to the floor will probably be bypassed by the casual thief who will go after TV’s, stereos, and other easy loot. It’s the mid level thief that we have to worry about – So, buying Gun Safes for Home Safety is continued below!

What To Look For – Design

Construction design is by far the most important element. And what is the best construction design? It’s one with no welds what so ever. In other words, a safe that is one solid seamless unit. Such a safe would be strongest you could buy with no weak points in the body to exploit. However such a design doesn’t currently exist.

Many modern gun safes will feature a seamless molded body, however the tops and bottoms will be welded on. In other words, they’re three piece assemblies – resulting in a total of 8 welded seams (4 top & 4 bottom). The only company that I know of that comes close to the ideal is Liberty Safes, which has a new model for 2002 with only two welded seams i.e. a single seam at the top and one at the bottom.

When checking a safe’s welds, ask the salesman if they were done by machine or by a person. Robotic welders do a much more uniform job over the long run.

Secondly, you have to look at metal thickness in the body, and on the door. Most safe doors will feature much thicker metal than the bodies. Consequently thieves with the time and tools will often attack the body of the safe rather than the door. Thicker is always better. 10 gauge steel is about as thin as you ever want to go, and 3/16th inch steel is usually as thick as it gets for a home safe. Not surprisingly, the price of the safe will be directly related to the thickness of the steel.

Be aware however, that when judging a safe, don’t forget what we said previously about the importance of safe design. For instance, a near seamless safe made with 10 gauge steel is probably going to provide more security than another made by simply welding five metal plates together and hanging a door on it. The first is a very strong unitized module and the second is a kluge even though it may be made of thicker steel. Ideally, we want both seamless construction AND thick steel.

article continued on page 2…

Please call me if i can help you out in your decision on buying your gun safes

Thank you -

Chris Guerra

Direct: 510.397.1151

Toll Free: 800-656-4143 x2000

article courtesy of: Todd Spotti

It will help if we can define the problem from the burglar’s perspective. Simply put, an intruder’s risk of getting caught increases with the amount of time that he spends in your home and the amount of noise that he makes while there. Therefore, the question is what steps can we take to make the bad guy waste time and make noise? You’ve already taken the first step, purchasing a safe. A safe is one of the most effective time wasting, noisy obstacles you can confront a burglar with. The tougher the safe is, the more time and noise it takes to break it. The weaker the safe, the less time and … well, you get the idea.

Buying a safe may not be enough by itself. One of the first thoughts that pops into the bad guys head is that if he can’t break into it in your house, take it to where he can. Do consider bolting it down as weight alone is not enough to keep the bad guy from removing the safe and transporting it to a location where he can take his time and make as much noise as he wants. It’s not that hard to move a heavy safe. Commercial power dollies, such as the Ultra -Lift that we use for deliveries, can easily walk up and down stairs, in and out of the back of a pick-up truck with as much as 1500lbs. No power dolly? Remember the commercial “Two men will move you”? Well two men can easily tip most safes over into a pick-up bed. Bolt it down!

Be creative. Stick it in a closet with a solid core door and a deadbolt (more time, more noise). If the closet is in a garage or utility room stick a professional looking sign on the door, “WARNING! HIGH VOLTAGE, ATMOSPHERE CONTROL UNIT, NO USER SERVICEABLE PARTS INSIDE“. Put a smoke detector on the ceiling directly above your safe – most of the things a bad guy does to break into a safe, (drilling into a hard plate, grinding, cutting torch), creates smoke. If the smoke detector lights off we have noise and the bad guy doesn’t know if someone is responding to it or not. Best guess is he leaves.

Take advantage of the S&G electronic locks. They dramatically increase security and increase your convenience at the same time! YOU change the combination, not a locksmith, a full million combinations, a tamper lock out (YOU set it for 0 to 9 minutes), 9 possible combinations which you can change, alter, or delete as desired. The 9 volt battery is on the outside and the combo is stored even if it dies. For Champion safes, a glass relocker is an outstanding way to improve your security by booby trapping the internal mechanism against tampering and drilling.

One last burglary item.

Unless the safe is a “show piece” for some reason, treat it as confidential family information. The less others know about your personal security measures the more unlikely they are to be unprepared to deal with a safe. Install it somplace out of sight and out of mind. Warn the kids against showing it to or talking about it with others.

FIRE

As with burglary, fire safes are not fire proof, they are fire resistant. If the safe cooks long enough, everything in it is toast. A fireliner buys time. Time for the FD to put the fire out. Simply put, the best fireliner is one that buys more time. Having said that, you don’t have to settle for whatever protection the safe company gave you. It is possible to improve your fire protection if you can think inside and outside the box.

Inside the box thinking includes things like not storing super flammables like perfume, gun powder, and ammunition inside your safe. It is possible that a fire could heat up the inside enough to ignite these items and that valuables that might have survived otherwise won’t. we stock a variety of lockers for these low value, flammable, keep away from children items. Another example of inside the box thinking is a fire box. Small enough to fit into most safes, (they come in several sizes), they can double the fire protection of most safes. It’s a perfect solution for important papers and small valuables.

Outside the box thinking might include: double or triple sheet rock inside the closet that your safe is in. Installing a sprinkler. Not storing flammables by your safe. Installing the safe away from likely ignition sources so that it isn’t the first thing to go. Not storing ammo or gun powder in your safe; once it cooks off things that otherwise might have survived may not.

Call us today for help with building your safe.

Remember ‘BUY’ your safe before you need it – do not wait too long!

Thank you -
Chris Guerra
Direct: 510.397.1151
Toll Free: 800-656-4143 x2000

Article courtesy of: Ron Godwin

We prefer gun safes with external hinges. These allow the door to open wider, a full 180 degrees–something you will appreciate every time you open the safe. Additionally, external hinges allow the safe door to be removed for easier transport and servicing. Contrary to some marketing claims, internal hinges do not necessarily make the safe more “secure”. Concealed internal hinges give a safe a sleeker, more modern appearance. But if a safe door has Stationary adequate locking bolts, the door will stay in place even if the hinges are cut completely off. And with either internal or external hinge design, it is the locking mechanism that is the real security concern.

“When shopping for a gun safe be aware of features that are only seen on ‘gun safes’ such as internal hinges, fire liners, etc., as they are usually marketing features more than safety features. It is often helpful to look at commercial safes to get an idea of how a safe, which is built for extremely high burglary risk, is constructed. For example, external hinges are a standard feature on commercial safes because the average burglar will waste time trying to cut or pry them. In any quality safe the hinges simply swing the door and shouldn’t be part of the security of the safe. Internal hinges usually cause the burglar to immediately attack the lock and other vital areas on the safe.”

And inside hinges only swing the door 90%, that’s it, So the door can get in the way of you accessing your contents – where outside hinges swing 180% granting you FULL access to the contents of your safe.

Please contact us for your gun safes needs – we will work with you to get the safe you want.

Thank you -
Chris Guerra
Direct: 510.397.1151
Toll Free: 800-656-4143 x2000

article courtesy of: 6mmbr

Placement in Safe
I recommend that handguns be placed in the top half of the Gun safes, at eye level if possible. This makes it easier to see what you’re looking for. Additionally, in the case of a flood or water leak, if your handguns are stored well above ground level, there’s a much better chance they’ll stay dry and rust-free. Many locksmiths tell us that water damage is more common with gun safes than fire loss, particularly with safes stored in a basement or storage area below ground level. And remember, even in the case of fire, your safe may end up “ankle-deep” in water once the fire department has done its job.

Gun Rugs and Corrosion Protection
Buy a Bore-Store for each one of your handguns. These are inexpensive and come in a variety of sizes to fit everything from a Walther PPK to a 10″ barreled .44 Mag Hunter. Bore stores cushion your pistols and revolvers–keeping them safe from nicks and scratches. The synthetic fleece fabric is treated to inhibit rust, and the fabric wisks moisture away. I have never seen any rust form on guns I’ve kept in Bore-Stores. Conversely, I’ve had rust start to form on dies kept in plastic boxes. For $7-$9.00 per gun, a Bore-Store is the best investment you can make. Don’t store your precious pistols in plastic gun cases lined with synthetic foam–these can actually “lock in” harmful moisture.

Sliding Gun safes Drawers
While racks are convenient, I think the best way to store handguns is in pull-out horizontal drawers. Handguns, even big magnum revolvers, are relatively thin, so they fit easily in a drawer. A 3″-high drawer makes very efficient use of space and offers four-sided protection against nicks and scrapes. Drawers also keep your handguns out of plain view, and can be separately locked. (This is especially important if you have kids.) While it’s nice if the drawer interiors are carpeted or cloth-lined, if you use Bore-Stores this isn’t that important.

Handgun Racks
A variety of handgun racks are available for in-safe storage. Choose from wood, acrylic, or plasti-coated tubular metal. I’ve used the latter in my safes and they are hold all types of handguns (both semi-autos and revolvers) very securely. I’ve found that some of the wood racks crowd the gunvault too close together. The tubular-type racks, available in four- or six-gun versions, give adequate spacing. In fact, if (as I suggest), you keep your pistols in Bore-Stores the spacing is just about perfect. One other nice thing about the metal racks is that they can be stacked together to clear up space when they’re not in use. Another interesting tubular rack is the 12-gun, “double-decker” Rack’Em? design available from SportsMansGuide.com for $27.00.

Gun-Racks.com makes a nicely-crafted, double-tier wood rack with slots for 12 handguns. Rayon-covered, it is gentle on your guns’ finish. This two-level rack showcases a large handgun collection nicely. However, it does take up a lot of space in the gun safes.

On-Door Storage
If you’ve run out of space to store your sidearms inside the safe, there are a variety of means to mount handguns on the door. These support the gun front and rear very securely; your guns won’t shake loose as you open and close the door. That can happen with simple peg mounts that hang handguns by the trigger guard. (If you use pegs, make sure they are mounted at an upward angle or have a 90-degree bend at the end).

Another door-mount system uses fabric holsters fitted with “hook and loop” material on one side. This attaches directly to a carpeted door. I don’t like such door holsters for a couple reasons. First, the nylon holster can, over time, abrade the finish of a high-polish blued handgun. Second, the nylon absorbs moisture which can promote rust. Third, over time, if you rearrange the holsters, the Velcro can lose its grip. Most of these holster designs have an open muzzle. So, if the holster works loose as you’re inserting the gun, or if the Velcro fails to hold, the crown can be damaged when the gun hits the ground. Keep that in mind if your safe is in a garage or basement with a concrete floor.

Storage in Foam-Lined Gun Cases
Many handgun owners like to keep their guns in the foam-lined cases provided by the factory, or similar aftermarket products. This is a VERY BAD IDEA. That gray foam inside the case is a moisture magnet. It will soak up water vapor and hold it close to the gun, creating a perfect environment for rust to spread. I have one wealthy friend whose gun collection includes a dozen very expensive Colt Single Action Armys. He stored them inside foam-lined Doskocil cases. When I visited him recently I noted (to my horror) that many of his precious Colts were rusting INSIDE their plastic cases. To prevent this, use a good corrosion inhibitor such as Eezox or CorrosionX, and store your guns out of the box, preferably inside a breathable Bore-Store gun sock.

Please contact us about a custom made Gun safes or Gunvault – we build them everyday & we build them for you to your specifications & needs.

Thank you.
Chris Guerra
Direct Line: 510.397.1151
Toll Free: 800.656.4143 x2000

article compliments of: 6mmbr

The first thing you should do is attach seals around the door if your safe doesn’t have any. This will block the introduction of moist, humid air from the outside. Any rubber-type seal is better than nothing, but the preferred sealing material is Palusol?, in full-length strips. Palusol? expands to provide a very tight seal in the event of fire.

Next, you should coat your firearms with a proven rust preventative. The three best products we’ve found are BoeShield T-9, CorrosionX, and Eezox. All provide outstanding, long-term protection against rust without leaving a greasy coating on your guns. Eezox goes on wet, but after the carrier evaporates, it leaves a thin, glossy dry-film barrier that doesn’t have to be removed before using your firearms. Eezox is our preferred product for high-polish, blued handguns and rifles. CorrosionX and BoeShield leave a dry, wax-like finish on the metal.

We strongly recommend all firearms be stowed inside Bore-Store gun socks. Bore-Stores are made from a thick, synthetic fleece treated with silicon and rust preventatives. The heavy fleece wicks away moisture from the surfaces of your firearms, while providing very effective protection against nicks and dings. Bore-Stores are relatively inexpensive, and come in a variety of sizes for all types of firearms. We consider them a “must-have” item for in-safe storage of fine rifles and shotguns. You can order BoreStores from Grafs.com, Cabelas.com, or Brownells.com. You can often find them for sale at gunshows and larger outdoor retailers.

Controlling humidity and temperature inside your safe is also very important. Rust forms much more quickly with moist air and when temperatures rise and fall. An electric warming unit, such as the GoldenRod?, is the best means to regulate temperature inside your safe. The GoldenRod? heats to a surface temperature of about 140? F, helping to maintain warm air throughout your safe on a 24-hour basis. Maintaining a warm temperature in the safe lessens the chance that water vapor will condense and promote rust. We have also found that running a simple light bulb in the safe all the time performs much the same function as a GoldenRod?, with lower initial cost. You can use a plain 20-watt incandescent bulb, or to save on electricity bills, use one of the “long-life” fluorescents. Warning: Bulbs can get hot–use only a very low wattage lamp, and be sure to keep the bulb away from papers, wood stocks, fabrics or other contents that can easily ignite.

Desiccant products will absorb moisture out of the air in your safe. They offer handy, inexpensive protection against rust. We recommend putting small desiccant packs in ammo cans and handgun drawers, and a larger desiccant bag or pack on each shelf in your safe. Gun and hobby shops sell desiccants in various sizes, but you can save 80% or more on the price by ordering direct from shipping supply outfits such as Uline.com

The last line of defense in the war against rust is an active anti-corrosion vapor emitter. BullFrog offers vapor phase corrosion inhibitors (VpCI?s), which employ the same effective anti-rust ingredients used by the military, NATO, and major industries. These are available in strips or stick-on cups for small tool boxes and cabinets. For a large safe, use the Bullfrog Rust Blocker Shield. Priced under $10.00, a single Rust Blocker Shield will protect up to 50 cubic feet of space for one year.

Please call or contact me regarding us building a CUSTOM safe for you.
Thank you – Chris
Direct Line 510.397.1151 or
Toll Free 800-656-4143 x2000

Article compliments of: 6mmbr